Research Paper By: Dr. Muhammad Ali Manjhi

Owing to his valuable capabilities and political vision, the true son of soil, an intellectual as well as great warrior Shaheed Doolah Darya Khan alleviated from his status Commander-In-Chief and Ameer-ul-Umrah (Prime minister) of Sindh during the tenure of highly reputed Emperor of Sama dynasty Jam Nizam-ud-Din alias Jam Nindo Samoo.

Research scholar, historian and author of many books Pir Hussam-ud-Din Rashdi contending the early life of Doolah Darya Khan Scribes: “as an adopted son of the emperor Jam Nizam-ud-Din, Doolah Darya Khan proved to be a sincere component of the state and very loyal to the emperor, he earned love and confidence of the public through his deliverance.”(1)

Following the demise of King, he took efforts for the betterment of the country. Rashdi Sahib mentioned that: “Doolah Darya Khan continued for over decade to defend the mother land against the Arghuns invaders and ruthlessly fought and retreated them towards Dar-e-Boolan.”(2)

Unfortunately, Doolah Darya Khan scarified his life in this war which resulted en-chaptering and anti-Sindh Chapter of “Kharabi-e-Sindh”. The ill-fated event, what to talk merely about Thatta but paved path for the out comers to capture the land of Thatta.

Doolah Darya Khan did not merely served Sindh for defending the mother land till the last drop of his blood but he was known for his exceptional mode of governance.

He introduced a new agricultural revolution and also achieved the name for building up extra ordinary infrastructures.

In those days when the mighty Indus diverted from its `Renn` stream and gushed towards “kori khaari” near `Dandhee` (Tando Muhammad Khan), the Indus water quantum considerably reduced its flow to Thatta.

Mighty Indus, which had been irrigating vast landscape of lower Sindh through its major outlets ‘Bagharr’ and ‘Kalri’ branches as well as holding world known ports like ‘Laari Bander’ on its banks near Thatta, the part of Sindh, were about to be ruined, however the great visionary Doolah Darya Khan carried out remodeling of the riverine system by streaming out ‘Khan Wah’ through the Kalri, resulted in re-streaming of water and improvement in the lands of Thatta and Sakro.

The mentionable infrastructures buildup by Doolah Darya Khan includes “Darya Khan Jo Kot” (The fortress of Darya Khan) mostly ignored by the historians and got a very little space in our history books.

The invaders including the Arghuns set ablaze the relevant record was the main reason behind none availability and lack of documentation of the facts. It is believed that following the martyrdom of Doolah Darya Khan these invaders might have been dismantled and destroyed the fort but other remains of infrastructure are still visible at the site.

It is also believed that the invaders might have tarnished the history of those times to diverse the minds of public and solicit sympathies of those inclined towards the invaders.

It is said that the sons of the great warrior Darya Khan were also fighting in Baghban area under the command of Makhdoom Bilawal much away from the Thatta resulted in colossal losses and reason behind invasion.

Location Of The Fortress:

Darya Khan Jo Kot (Fortress of Darya Khan) was built at Makli hill on its east edge. Its remains are still there and visible at the footings of Makli hill along Makli incline. The major portion of the courtyard is located on the hill adjacent to the incline. The ruins of The Haveli (The Residence) are also there and visible at top of the hill till this time.

Geographically, not only the site was very important in yester years but it remains a scenic site. The site en-housed the natural lush green beauty portraying ‘Gharr Masann’ and ‘Kalkan’ lake.

On south, the localion was full of the lush green orchards, green crops and few steps onwards was ‘The Mekra Lake’. In the South-East, on the distance of approximately 2 km, the Royal fort and its gardens were situated.

In its east (North to South) “Ali Jan Wah” exists and a few steps ahead `Tundsar Lake` This is important to mention that, in those days Makli graveyard was only consist (in the north area of Makli) of the graveyard of Sama and Issa langoti beside the some scattered graves. The rest of the Makli hill was also holding attractive visit worthy sites including temples, water reservoirs and wells. The other tombs and graves were constructed later on. The present Eid Gah also built up after these structures.

What sort of the building of fortress, number of its doors and its sites, security towers, its ceilings, width of walls and its strength, Height as well as how many other buildings were within the courtyard? There is no any complete evidence available now except remains of site with few references in history books of those times.

Well-Known researcher of Sindh Bheru Mal in his travelogue `Sindh Jo Selani` has inscribed that: “In out skirts of Thatta a road along Municipal octroi post leads via Villages Gujjo and Gharo to Karachi. On its way one can find invariable pieces of bricks and stones. People believed that these are the ruins of Darya jo Kot.”(3)

Dr. Ghulam Muhammad Lakho in his book “Saman Ji Sultanat” (Sama Kingdom) with reference to Bheru Mal acknowledges the existence of fort and Haveli near Makli Eid Gah. Presently the shallow road track passes through the remains of Darya Khan Fortress. (4)

There is no doubt that Pir Hussam-ud-Din Rashdi and Dr. Nabi Bux Khan Baloch rendered extra ordinary work on the Thatta and Makli. Dr. Nabi Bux Khan Baloch mentioned in his Research paper ‘The Origin of Thatta’: “This lak_like (Tandsar) a for_mation along the bed of the then following river/branch stream provided an ideal anchorage for the boats on the eastern bank. A large quantity of water was available here all the year roud, both during the Abkaliani and winter seasons. The mausoleums of two revered saints, Lal Chhato and Ibrahim Shah, on the eastern bank indicates that this area has remained under continuous focus and was, in all probability, the earliest flourishing sector of the city. Opposite to it, on the western side of the river and situated on the Makli range, was the Kot of Darya Khan, the prime minister and Commander in Chief of Jam Nizam-Ud-Din.” (5)

Dr. Sahib has further elaborated his point of view in his notes: “The area on the eastern side of the Eid-Gah has been known as ‘DARYA KHAN-JO-TAKAR’ (Darya khan`s hill) because of his kote and Haveli which were there. The steps which now lead to the Eid-Gah are situated on the northern (wall) side of the kote. All stands effected now but the ruins are visible.” (6)

Despite the fact that, the stairs cited by Dr. N. A Baloch or now little exists at the site, it’s on ground prints are still visible beside the foundation of fort. In fact this upward stairway is part of the fort on the hill.

Since years together I am anxiously reading and scanning lots of books to learn the exact location of this fort besides asking the octogenarians as well as virtually visiting site to bring the historical facts alight.

As per my research the ground realties are as under:

§ The fort area spreads over 8.10 acres.

§ The south east wall of fortress is not erected straight but it has been built on the original and natural existence of hilly terrain and a zigzag way giving exposure of picturesque natural beauty.

§ The ground visit explains that, the fort was consisted of three parts. The first and major portion exists on comparatively high site of west en-housing “Haveli”, this Haveli admeasures 400 ft. in length towards east to west and 200 ft. width north to south.

§ The second portion located in south site was meant for administrative block.

§ The third portion visible in east toward depression was being used for rest of the employees and other activities. In this low lying area a wide hall was constructed for the official guests of the state. To make it an attractive site a garden was located in forefront. Presently only the remains of main entrance would be seen in eastwardly wall. It is believed in those yester years a sweet and crystal water trench stream out of Khan Wah canal was flowing in front of main entrance. One can find a thin structure wall in between eastern portion of the fortress and haveli probably built to separate the both areas.

To escalate upstairs and a wide staircase along north wall was built, of which remains are still available on the site.

Ruins:

Despite the major sites of ruins are getting vanished with the span of time the remains of running walls and scattered pieces of bricks are available at site to invite the attention of history lovers. Particularly on eastern sites were and whenever spading the hidden remains often unearthed. One can see the ruins of staircase of the fort from beneath the hill foots. The remains of the outer wall of Haveli and the interior rooms are also visible from this site. The remains of the pillars of the rooms and a well would also be seen at the site. In south east of the haveli the courtyards walls plinth admeasures 14x16” are visible at inside it the remains of two big halls and two rooms as well as remains of some small rooms attracts the visitors.

Since years due to non-availability of any custodian of the site the encroachers have frequented extending graveyards and other infrastructures within its limits, evident from the fact that the encroachers have stolen and ornamented precious carved stones and bricks of the fortress to the graves of their private graveyards. In both portion of the fort piles of burnt bricks would be seen speaks about the invasion of Arghuns at Thatta, who set ablaze this fort and reduced to ashes its entire belongings including the valuables.

To learn and collect the exact information about ruins of this historical fortress I opted to established contacts with those who love history and can reveal much.

In this connection, I convened a meeting with Mr. Abdullah Gandro, who inspired me by telling though provoking facts about Darya Khan Jo Kot. We both went the site and started from the eastern site of Sim Nali (sub drain).

Pointing towards one of the exposed plinth of the fort he disclosed that: “Due to extraction of mud by the influential along plinths, these have been made visible.” He added that: “Before seventies (1970s) almost the entire signs of the plinth were visible and he had witnessed the plinths made of stone and bricks in this fort.”

Revealing the beauty and strength of the fort building in his own way, Abdullah Gandro said that: “In eastern site also there were ruins of the number of rooms.”(8) By saying so Gandro indirectly meant to disclose that: “The excavation of `Sim Nali` along the remains of fort was one of the reasons of the rapid deterioration of the historical site.”

He disclosed that: “If the engineers of drainage department who had been approached by him and some other history lovers had followed their proposals to change the alignment of the Sim Nail those days to save the remains, the situation would have been very different today but unfortunately the officers claiming to be the servants of the public did not responded the public and rendered irreparable loss to the historical site.”

Pointing towards the depression site he said: “Thousands of bricks of fort were dumped at that place which had been either stolen away by the mafias or ruined by the Darin water, he said the fort was having eight watch towers and showing the remains of staircase, he disclosed that the staircase was also belongs to those times which bridge up commuters through wooden boats from fortress to Thatta. He disclosed that, this site was street to the Badshahi courtyard (emperor Fort) in the south Islampur Mohalla in Thatta.”(7)

Known political figure Baboo Ghulam Hussain recalling the glowing past of Thatta said: “Till his midlife he himself frequently visited the historical site and he remembered the staircase met to escalate upward and the signs of plinths and scattered bricks of the fortress were available along the Sim Nali (outfall drain).”(8)

Prof Kazi Muhammad Zakir known for exploring the hidden historical site revealed that: “The remains of fortress the witness in his childhood were remain intact till the partition of the sub-continent and in eastern site from the stairs of Eid Gah the wall of fortress were clearly visible.” Inviting the attention towards an important point he said: “In 1956 this area witnessed super flood in Indus which inundated Thatta city at out skirts. The prolong stagnancy of water around Makli hill was also one of this case of damages to these remains beside the additional loss and damages incurred to these site due to the Sim Nali” (Outfall drain). He disclosed that: “It was a fact that, this area of Makli was named as Darya Khan Jo Takar. (The hilly Terrain of Darya Khan) He again acknowledged that: “1956 flood submerged entire Thatta houses and installations up to its top and only the wind catchers of the houses were visible, in those critical days a majority of Thatta people shifted to the twin town Makli.”(9)

Prof. Dost Muhammad Qureshi told that: “While traveling from Thatta to Makli Eid Gah one can see along Makli incline a lot of stones and bricks of Darya Khan waree Charri”.(10)

The all above mentioned observers further said that, till four decades these remains properly existed at the site but after emergence of Sim Nali (outfall drain) these reduced to minimum. They unanimously believe that except for the old golden years, from the inceptions of twentieth century like the Archeological sites of the rest of the Sindh, the sites of Thatta and Makli also resumed vanishing and this fortress also sustained grieve losses and damages in the period. Elaborating, they believed till the fifties and sixties (1950 and 1960) the remains of this fort mostly of its eastern walls were intact.

When in 1960 a Sim Nali (outfall drain) was dug along the eastern wall of fortress it started damaging. In 1995 to strengthen the embankments of the Sim Nali but it’s of no avail.

Owing to non-existence of any custodian authorities or public vigilance the building mafia frequented lifting away and even detaching the bricks at large scale from plinth. Once upon a time (in 1996) During my boarding at Government Degree Collage hostel I along with my colleague, Drama and short Story writer Hafeez Kunbhar often pass through the site and found the mafia taking away bricks and mud through the trucks and earth moving machines.

Being saner citizens and students of history on the same time and again reacted and apprised the authorities to save the site but the mafia still avail backing of influential political cadre and they continue to operate.

It is unfortunate that we are losing our history by rendering irreparable damages and losses to historical sites and those who really love history and aware of its importance, call for adaptation of these measures to save our heritage and help up to rise our generation ahead about the glowing past of Sindh and Sindhies.

Some Suggestions:

1. Appointment of a permanent Chokidar.

2. Installation of a Sign Board.

3. Demarcation of actual site.

4. Administrative measures including protection and preservation of site.

In the last foot note, we are proud to say that, Sindh is lucky enough in this sub-continent to have a true and loyal son of soil, the great warrior Doolah Darya Khan.